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Kashmir

Srinagar

Srinagar sits at about 1,585 metres on Dal Lake and is the arrival point for almost every Kashmir itinerary. A houseboat night, a shikara ride and the Mughal gardens fill two days, after which most trips move on to Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonmarg.

Altitude
About 1,585 m
Best time
April to October, December to February for snow
Days needed
2
Known for
Dal Lake, houseboats, Mughal gardens
Usually paired with
Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Sonmarg

Dal Lake and the houseboats

The houseboats are cedar, carved and moored, and range from basic to genuinely grand. One night is the right amount for most people — they are an experience rather than a comfortable hotel. The floating vegetable market at dawn needs an early shikara and is worth the alarm.

The Mughal gardens

Shalimar, Nishat and Chashme Shahi step up the hillside above the lake in terraces, built in the seventeenth century around channels of running water. Nishat has the best framing of the lake; Shalimar is the largest.

Where Srinagar leads

Gulmarg for the gondola and the meadow, about two hours west; Pahalgam for the Lidder valley, about two and a half hours south; Sonmarg on the road to Ladakh. Most Kashmir itineraries are Srinagar plus two of those three.

Questions people ask

Is it worth staying on a houseboat in Srinagar?

For one night, yes. They are characterful and the location on the water is the point. For a longer stay most people prefer a hotel, because houseboats vary a lot in comfort and heating.

How many days do you need in Kashmir?

Six to seven days covers Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonmarg at a reasonable pace. Five is possible if you drop one of the valleys.

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