Kashmir
Pahalgam
Pahalgam sits at about 2,130 metres where the Lidder river comes down from the Kolahoi glacier, roughly two and a half hours from Srinagar. Aru, Betaab and Chandanwari are the three valleys reached from it, and it is also the traditional starting point of the Amarnath yatra.
- Altitude
- About 2,130 m
- From Srinagar
- About 2.5 hours
- Days needed
- 1 to 2
- Side valleys
- Aru, Betaab, Chandanwari
- Known for
- Lidder river, pine forest, Amarnath yatra base
The three valleys
Betaab is closest and the most visited. Aru is 12 km up and quieter, and is the trailhead for Kolahoi and Tarsar Marsar. Chandanwari is the Amarnath road-head and holds snow well into summer. Local taxi unions control access to all three, which is worth knowing before you plan your own driving.
Pahalgam against Gulmarg
Pahalgam is river, pine and walks; Gulmarg is meadow, gondola and snow. If you only have time for one and are travelling in summer, Pahalgam generally gives more to do on foot.
Questions people ask
Which is better, Pahalgam or Gulmarg?
They are different rather than ranked. Gulmarg is the choice for snow, skiing and the gondola. Pahalgam is the choice for river valleys, forest walks and a slower stay. Most six-day Kashmir itineraries include both.
Why do local taxis have to be used in Pahalgam?
Access to Aru, Betaab and Chandanwari is controlled by the local taxi union, so your tour vehicle usually stops in Pahalgam town. It is a standard arrangement rather than a problem, but budget for it.
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Tours that go there
Every one of these is run by our own team, with the drivers and the permits arranged.
Read next
- Srinagar travel guideSrinagar sits at about 1,585 metres on Dal Lake and is the arrival point for almost every Kashmir itinerary. A houseboat night, a shikara ride and the Mughal gardens fill two days, after which most trips move on to Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonmarg.
- Gulmarg travel guideGulmarg is a meadow at about 2,650 metres, two hours from Srinagar, best known for the gondola that climbs towards Apharwat at roughly 3,980 metres. It is India’s main ski destination in winter and a green alpine meadow in summer. One night is usually enough.
- Sonmarg travel guideSonmarg lies at about 2,730 metres on the Sindh river, the last Kashmir valley before the Zoji La pass to Ladakh. Thajiwas glacier is the main excursion, reached on foot or by pony. It is usually a day trip from Srinagar or a stop on the drive to Leh.
- Best time to visit KashmirApril to October covers Kashmir’s green season, with tulips in April, gardens through summer and clear valleys into autumn. December to February brings snow to Gulmarg and the ski season. Each is a genuinely different trip rather than a better or worse one.

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